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Una mañana, muy temprano, partimos con la intención de matar el gusanillo de la curiosidad. Recorrimos unos 140 kilómetros hasta llegar al municipio, no aldea, más pequeño de la provincia de Huelva, y de Andalucía, Cumbres de Enmedio, que en 2015 contaba con 54 habitantes (cumbreños).
Este bellísimo y apacible municipio respira quietud, paz y sosiego.
Se encuentra ubicado en la Sierra de Huelva, en el Parque Natural de la Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche, separado de Extremadura por el arroyo del Sillo.
En su término municipal se contrastan los paisajes cerealistas de los alrededores y las dehesas de encinas, su gran tesoro ecológico. Los alrededores del arroyo del Sillo, que es afluente del río Múrtigas, y por tanto vierte sus aguas a la cuenca del Guadiana, están colonizados por especies arbóreas adaptadas a suelos húmedos y encharcados, como sauces, alisos y fresnos, que a veces forman bosques de galería.
Mención especial merece la zona conocida como Sierra del Viento. Situada al sur, posee un gran valor paisajístico, con un amplio muestrario de ecosistemas. También podemos destacar la Cumbre Malaparte o Cortijo Pereo, donde se alcanzan las mayores alturas, siendo la máxima cota el cerro de El Endrinar.
La configuración urbana de Cumbres de Enmedio, con apenas unas pocas calles, recorren transversalmente la antigua Cañada Real, hoy carretera local que une los tres municipios denominados con el topónimo de Cumbres (Cumbres Mayores, Cumbres de San Bartolomé y Cumbres de Enmedio).
El pequeño y enjuto caserío lo forman viviendas de una sola planta con doblado y corrales traseros, que suelen contar con acceso directo. Comparten elementos decorativos inspirados en la arquitectura culta y otros de corte popular, atribuidos a la influencia de los colonos que repoblaron estas tierras en la Edad Media.
En la Calle Real, la principal de Cumbres de Enmedio, entre naranjos, destacan una serie de viviendas, algunas decimonónicas y otras de la primera mitad del siglo XX, representativas de la arquitectura popular serrana, con trazas extremeñas y lusas (chimeneas) y del movimiento regionalista de inicios del pasado siglo.
El origen histórico de Cumbres de Enmedio va muy de la mano de la que comentamos de sus vecinos Cumbres de San Bartolomé https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAklMujXgxg y Cumbres Mayores https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJuVs6G-LaQ y se pueden situar en las aldeas que surgieron con la repoblación cristiana tras la Reconquista del siglo XIII.
Su escasa población la privó de una fortaleza defensiva, como las de sus vecinas Cumbres y otras poblaciones cercanas.
En 1639, el rey Austria Felipe IV le concedió el “privilegio de villazgo”, a cambio de una cantidad de dinero que obligó al endeudamiento del municipio durante muchos años.
Cumbres de Enmedio, cuyo escudo lo encontramos en piedra en el suelo de la calle principal (dos llaves colocadas “en palo” y una cabeza de jabalí, y corona real), disfruta de un sistema de gobierno local de democracia directa, el llamado administrativamente Concejo Abierto: todos sus habitantes censados y mayores de 18 años toman en asambleas, presididas por el alcalde o persona en quien delegue, las decisiones que atañen al municipio.
Aparte de la ya mencionada Calle Real, la principal edificación monumental de Cumbres de Enmedio es la iglesia de San Pedro, obra de Pedro de Silva. Como sustituta de otra anterior, fue proyectada hacia el año 1770. Declarada Bien de Interés Cultural, destaca su planta cuadrada, la elevada altura de su única nave y su fachada, con unas inscripciones muy originales.
Sobre una de las entradas a la población se sitúa una fuente-abrevadero (pasado trashumante), la Fuente del Pilar, sobre un suelo empedrado.
Su principal acontecimiento festivo es la Feria de San Pedro, su patrón, que se celebra en torno al 29 de junio. Además, la matanza del cerdo ibérico es una costumbre que sirve como importante complemento a las economías familiares y como acto social de reencuentro entre familiares y amigos.
Dimos por finalizada la visita a esta pequeña y bella población serrana, donde sus habitantes basan la economía en los recursos agro-ganaderos de subsistencia.
Fue un amanecer finalizando el otoño y desde ese día, Cumbres de Enmedio ya quedó en el centro de nuestro corazón viajero.
(Nota: algunas y imágenes y/o vídeos han podido ser cedidos por amigos y colaboradores del canal. Siempre sin ánimo de lucro).
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